Monday, January 22, 2007
Branching Out
Now that it’s actually cold outside, and I’m not as stressfully attached to my computer on weekends, I went with some friends to a Russian bath called Spa 88, to experience the steam rooms and pools, and to get beaten with birch branches.
All of it was wonderful, and I have been glowing for two days. The place bears a resemblance to a cave system, built to hide from winter. If I wanted the entire circulation-stimulating and cleansing experience I would have to get the “Venik” or platza massage where I would be lashed, scratched and wacked by bundles of birch that have been soaked and softened in hot water.
By the time I was ready for it, I had sweated and tenderized in the first sitting of the Russian Sauna, then really opened up with the less-hot, refreshing eucalyptus in the Turkish steam, jumped into — and right back out of — the cold plunge pool, and gone back into the sauna. The russian sauna is a nice mix of heat and steam, and smells good, but you have to be well hydrated and move slowly to not get dizzy. Sitting on the lower steps was intense enough, and the higher you sat, the warmer the air. The physical need to move with caution (dizziness, and to not tumble or step on people), together with awareness of my breathing forces you (me) to relax. Being among a few friends (including Anna who is familiar) felt like the way to go, because it let us know what to expect and get the most out of everything, without feeling bored or awkward. Sitting there on towels, I think I’d be bored after a little while if I were alone.
However rough and scary the Venik/Platza technique sounds, it’s effective! I won’t deny it’s scary and too hot and super weird. But there’s some science in it.
Birch contains phytochemicals and essential oils that make you all soft and smoooove. And I felt smooooooth, except for the moments where the fanning generated more heat, and if I had opened my eyes (I’d have lost one if I peaked) my hands and feet would have been glowing like coals. The lashing, whipping and waving were done with a well rehearsed and rhythmic beat. They start lightly and build up more vigor. The sound of it is like percussion music, like Stomp. The warm soft leaves pressed into you feel like a soft warm washcloth, the way steam feels too hot at first, but then good and refreshing.
The best part was when the harder pressing and the expert cracking of my spine and anything still attached. The first part I was face down, then the person led me carefully down from the hottest level of the sauna out into the showers, and held me under an ice cold spray, turned me around to get my face under, and then told me to breath more slowly, because I was hyperventilating. In hell and hot saunas, no one want to hear you scream, which maybe I was, just a little. Then back in for round two, face up, and another icy shower after. Sitting in my robe afterward, on a funky underground patio in a tea-and-oranges cafe, with a nature show in another language, I felt perfectly content, but felt, that since I had done it, I never needed to do it again!
After we got our custom treatments, there was herbal tea with honey and fruit compote, and going back into more cave areas to sit and sip in our robes and slippers. There were ornate wooden screens as barriers, big leather booth benches, and iron cafe tables, low lit. The warmth of the tea acclimates your body to the saunas, so we felt better the next time we went into one.
For added bonus, and cuz hey, we were on vacation, we smeared honey all over our faces before going back in (also healing and softening anti-aging goodness) and let it melt into and off of us. With the constant showering and fresh towels, you can do things like that.
Probably the one thing I crave most in winter is swimming, because I grew up in a condo with an indoor pool, so I was really happy to take a swim in this one. Few solo activities are quite so nice as moving, gliding and floating weightless. The jacuzzi hot tub didn’t feel even slightly hot. I was convinced the thermostat saying 103.8 was totally wrong.
Starved after all that, we went to restaurant in the upper level of the spa, drank cold vodka with fruit compote on the side (like a fruit tea made with fresh cherries, strawberries, and maybe grapes) ate pickled herring, fried potatos, pelmeni (like pirozhki, like pierogi), and a traditional salad (like an egg/potatoe salad with peas, carrots, served with nice dark, marble, and white bread).
Many a toast (NA ZDOROVIE) and thank you (SPA-SI-BO) to my friend Anna, who so fabulously showed us how to survive the winter cold.
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